Nubuck leather is leather with a roughened and grinded upper part. Thanks to this method it has the velvety surface and its gentle touch. The grinding, however, also increases the sensitivity when it comes to spots and stains and reduces the UV resistance – thus the leather loses colour more quickly.
If the lower part of the leather is roughened, you get suede leather. Its open-cell structure is significantly rougher than Nubuck – and the fibers are more clearly visible.
Smooth leather are all kinds of leathers where the grain side is used and finished outside – irrespective of structure and level of graining and workmanship.
The full grain cowhide leather of our Cambridge line is refined with a transparent aniline finish.
Aniline leather / open-cell smooth leathers
Open-cell smooth leathers which are only dyed with solvable colorants are called aniline leathers. The pigments penetrate the material deeply and completely dye the leather. After the colour bath, the leather has a smooth-waxy touch. The natural structure is preserved – so only flawless pieces are used. Since the pores are not sealed (open-cell), this leather is prone to water and dirt.
The full grain cowhide leather of our Cambridge line is refined with a transparent aniline-finish.
Boarding is when leather is being pulled over a metal edge from two drums – or when it is folded by hand and under pressure smoothened out. This way, the leather does not only get a very smooth finish after the dying process, but also receives a fine, parallel wave-like structure. The cross-boarding is created when the component is also turned 90 degrees and worked on again, the cross-boarding is created.
Milled leather is dry leather which has tumbled around in a barrel (the so-called mill-barrel) for several hours. This leather is very smooth and has a natural surface structure.
Milled leather is used for our Berlin and Montpellier lines.
Nappa leather is a general term for especially flexible smooth leathers with authentic grain leather in grown structure.
Pull-up leather / Greased leather
Pull-up leather is dyed, smooth cowhide nubuck leather with so-called fatty feel. It is created by applying an oily or waxy layer, which dissipates slowly when used. The patina which is created thanks to this effect is desired and intensifies the typical vintage look.
For our Roma line we use best pull-up leather with a fatty feel to achieve the desired 2-tone-effect. We also use high-quality waxed leathers for our Salisbury and Dakota lines – with an authentic vintage effect thanks to the matt finish. For our Lucca line we use oiled and waxed cowhide leather.